Calling Code: 385
Subregion: Southern Europe
Languages: hrv : Croatian
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Croatia is back! It may have disappeared from the radar for a while, but its idyllic stretch of Adriatic bays, beaches and rocky islets is well and truly buzzing with visitors again, and with good reason. Here the Mediterranean lifestyle and mindset is exemplified in the gentle chugging of water taxis, harbour-side promenades, siestas behind shuttered windows and a willingness to stop for gossip and coffee at any hour. There's more to Croatia than glamour and hedonism, too: Croatian culture has been informed by manifold influences ? Venetian merchants, Slavic folklore, rugged geography, devout Catholicism and maritime adventurism ? all of which contribute to this sun-drenched country of warm stone architecture where oleanders seem to bloom year-round and the water is implausibly clear.
April to June and September to October
Dubrovnik, the 'pearl of the Adriatic', the limestone-walled city jutting into the sea The sparkling lakes, waterfalls and walkways at Plitvice Lakes National Park Diocletian's Palace in Split, now full of cafes, plazas and boutique shops Zagreb's galleries, churches, museums and kickin' nightlife Untouched forests and hidden coves on Cres Island
Sail, catch a ferry, or paddle a canoe, but you must cruise the Adriatic coast, a sublime stretch of land and sea Hunt truffles or just enjoy a slow-food banquet in Istria, Croatia's ecotourism capital Get your gear off and plunge into the sea in your birthday suit on the islands off Hvar, and plenty of other spots besides Straighten your collar, nod and smile at passers-by during the corso, the communal, early-evening promenade that happens in every Croatian town
Books: Black Lamb and Grey Falcon by Rebecca West, a classic Balkan travelogue; and noted Croatian journalist Slavenka Drakulic's Cafe Europa Music: traditional tamburica (lute) music, or modern pop from Gibonni and Severina Movies Armin directed by Ognjen Svilicic, a poignant observation of father-son relationships on the road to Zagreb; or Libertas, a biopic about 16th-century poet from Dubrovnik, Mann Drzic
Taste: cevapcici (skinless sausages) with hot bread and raw onions; or pasticada (beef stewed in wine and spices)
DrinkOzusko or Karlovacko, the two most popular beers; wine from Kvarner or Baranja
Azure seas; Dubrovnik's city walls; baroque cathedrals; terracotta roofs; yachties
Fine weather is so reliable in Hvar that some hoteliers offer free accommodation if it snows
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